ryuko tsushin ∙ aug 1982

description

Coverage of the A/W '82 Tokyo Collections during the astronomic rise of the Japanese economic bubble. The booming culture, creativity, and consumption at this time allowed for breakout success in the Japanese domestic market, with designers like Yohji and Rei leading the charge into international spheres. The Yohji collection was presented an astounding 3 times in the span of a month in Paris, New York, and Tokyo, reflecting the momentum and reach that Japanese designers were starting to have globally.

By this time the level of critical analysis from Japanese journalists and press had become quite developed and sophisticated. You can really feel the energy of the moment in time through the writing — a sense of excitement, national pride, and hope for the future.

Also featured are editorials art directed by the designers themselves (Spread 1: Yohji, Spread 2: Comme), and a 4-page advertisement for Yohji's 'Workshop' line which had a more utilitarian and workwear based approach:

"When our head office was in Nishi-Azabu, we had a workwear line called 'Workshop'. But it was discontinued because the president at the time didn’t like having to carry inventory for work clothes and failed to grasp my real intention. I truly think the most stylish people are those who mix designer pieces with genuine workwear — like vintage denim, leather jackets, and military uniforms that were originally created for a specific purpose. Jeans originated in the De Nimes region of France, and gabardine comes from the Gabardine region of Spain. Simply wearing jeans for labor is just work — it’s not fashion. Fashion, I believe, is about wearing garments that seem like they’ve come from the countryside and bringing them into the city. Workwear, to me, is a crucial element in refining a person." — WWD Japan, July 2016

notes

published by ryuko tsushin co. ltd.
softcover ∙ 21 x 29.5 cm ∙ 11 pp

Tokyo Collections '82–'83 Fall / Winter

The ’82–’83 Autumn / Winter Tokyo Collections were presented from late April to mid-May. Amid a wide range of commentary, one remark by a certain fashion critic left a strong impression: “Japan is currently the best. Japanese designers have moved beyond copying.”

Indeed, compared to past seasons, the overall quality of this collection stood out. It’s no longer about simply saying, “This is good, that is bad,” but rather, “This specific part of this is good” — that kind of discernment is now possible. We are no longer in the age of imitation. Now is the time when each designer can boldly express the sensibility they’ve been nurturing. And in that sense, many of the collections this season were highly complete. It is clear: the designers are thriving.

Among them, the four brands that presented especially strong collections were Y’s, Comme des Garçons, Men’s Bigi, and Bigi. The first three — Y’s, Comme des Garçons, and Men’s Bigi — have been performing well for several seasons now. But what stood out in common this time was fabric. Their genuine eye for material came through clearly, conveying richness and depth. As for Bigi, in recent seasons their collections had lacked cohesion and clarity. But this time, they finally captured the image of a mature woman that is quintessentially Bigi — and received high praise for it.

Fashion must reflect its time. The power to move people lies in how well a brand absorbs and expresses “now” within its own identity. Tokyo is, at last, truly at the starting line.

Y’s (Yohji Yamamoto) — First page, top

The Y’s collection, which was also well received in Paris, is characterized by its imaginative use of materials and dynamic design.

1. Thick cowhide tweed coordination
A substantial amount of tweed is used, but its patterns and buttons are carefully calculated to achieve visual balance.

2. A familiar design inspired by the tuxedo
A coat that is short in the front and gradually lengthens toward the sides — an asymmetrical silhouette offering a reinterpretation of classic formalwear.

3. Knitwear with inset fur
Its short length and exaggerated collar give it a cute and relaxed feel.

Comme des Garçons (Rei Kawakubo) — First page, third from top

This season’s theme centers on designs that make use of original materials. A notable feature is the introduction of a much wider range of colors.

1. A mini set made of subtly colored checks
The color palette is nuanced, with a soft interplay of tones.

2. A dress made from a single piece of fabric
Gathers and tucks are simply added at the front and back. The design is extremely minimal and completely detached from the conventional notion of ready-to-wear clothing.

3. A knit with holes
Not uniformly punched holes, but rather ones that resemble burn marks. It’s a distinctly Comme des Garçons-esque idea.

Music of '82–'83 Fall & Winter Tokyo Collection

Ultimately, both clothing and music exist beyond the realm of language. What matters is experiencing them —coming into contact with them in some form. At a fashion show, which is the place where clothing is presented, what do the audience members rely on to experience it? Only their eyes and ears. Of course, the clothing is the main focus, but there’s no denying that the impression it leaves can be significantly influenced by sound.

It’s unclear how consciously designers consider the importance of music selection, but the variation in their musical choices clearly reflects each designer’s or brand’s unique character. Brands that favor light, trendy music tend to focus solely on producing trend-driven fashion. On the other hand, brands that build their shows around more conservative music — like classical — often present collections that lean more toward couture than trends.

It’s a curious thing, but there are many shows whose combined effect of clothing and music has left a lasting impression on me to this day. It was in those moments that I truly felt that genuine, natural emotional impact is at the very heart of fashion. I hope those creating that experience will continue to put in the effort — to make collections all the more powerful through the emotional resonance they inspire.

Y's 4/28

Magico Incontro — L. Giordance
Regata Dei Dogi — Ed. Televise
My Big Hands — Ed. Televise
Here Come the People — New Musik
Aria Di Festa — Ed. Televise
I Repeat — New Musik
The End of Asia — Ryuichi Sakamoto + Danceries
Colombina — L. Giordance
La Serenissima — L. Giordance

Comme des Garçons 5/7

Sweaters — Laurie Anderson
White and Green Place — Maximum Joy 
Eggs in a Briar Patch — David Byrne
Poison — David Byrne
Deep Sleep — B 52's
Big Business — David Byrne
Klacto — Blue Rondo A La Talk
Minotchka — Tuxedo Moon

Performance '82 in Tokyo

On a certain day, in a certain month, in Tokyo — The ’82–’83 Fall / Winter Tokyo Collection was presented, with each designer pouring their thoughts into their work. Fashion shown on the stage will eventually flow into the streets. And once again, this coming fall and winter look to be incredibly diverse. This special feature was created by asking the designers themselves to direct their presentations, so that we could clearly capture and expand upon their intentions. With each turn of the page, a new world of imagery comes to life.