hf material collections ∙ october 1 1977

description

october 1977 issue of material collections, a supplementary appendix issue for high fashion magazine with reports on the latest shows. features seasonal coverage of the autumn / winter '77 paris collections, haute couture collections, and tokyo collections including yohji yamamoto's runway debut for the y's label. a print editorial featuring garments from the collection can be seen here.

bonus page with coverage of the comme des garçons show.

notes

published by bunka publishing bureau
softcover ∙ 24 x 33 cm ∙ 1 pp

Tokyo Collections ∙ Y's (Yamamoto Yohji)

It's been 9 years since Yohji Yamamoto won the 25th Soen Award, and 3 years since he began making ready-to-wear clothing under the brand "Y's". This is his first collection after enduring a long trial. At the time of receiving the Soen Award, one of the judges praised him as a "major newcomer in the design world". In this collection, he proved that he had indeed grown into the prominent designer everyone had expected him to be. He meticulously crafted the materials, from spinning the yarn to dyeing and weaving the fabric. The richness in variety was evident, surpassing any other collection in stores this season.

1. The collection showcased Y's signature style of simple straight cuts, featuring a big layered look. One of the standout pieces was a cotton-wool shirt paired with a layered coat-on-coat made of rubberized and recycled wool. Corduroy pants were also part of the ensemble.

2. The set included big pants and a coat, with a distinctive calfskin utilized for the sleeves.

3. A blouson and jumpsuit made from recycled wool.

4. A dress made from brushed wool herringbone to give it a soft texture.

5. A delicate, glossy lightweight cotton trenchcoat. Layered over it was a big vest made from soft wool blended with alpaca, adding to its texture and appeal.

Tokyo Collections ∙ Comme des Garçons (Kawakubo Rei)

At Asahi Kasei Corporation's planning department, the owner and designer, Rei Kawakubo, was responsible for advertising and planning. While it's not uncommon for models, celebrities, or directors to transition to clothing designers in other countries, it's a unique presence in Japan. Despite being a quiet person, Kawakubo's self-expression through clothing is incredibly strong. The so-called Comme des Garçons style is distinctive, from its sense of materials to particularly colored forms. The image is refined with a slightly decadent European touch, portraying a quiet but strong-willed woman. This time, the focus is on monochrome with colors like khaki and wine.

1. A big coat combining white synthetic boa and wool acetamide. Slightly lower waist belt.

2. A wool gauze-like large check pattern in white, black, and gray tones. The unique T-shaped top of Comme des Garçons with a high-waist switch one-piece.

3. A nostalgic blurred pattern reminiscent of traditional kimono crepe. Rich wine-colored fabric with gray shading.

4. A herringbone tweed trench coat and corduroy pilot pants.