so-en ∙ oct 1 1980

description

styling feature with a focus on height and proportion, showcasing y's looks put together by yohji. the core tenets of his work are all touched upon here — cutting 'space' into the garment, the relationship between body and cloth, the embrace of imperfection, an offbeat attitude. timeless and universal principles that are still embodied today.

notes

published by bunka publishing bureau
softcover ∙ 20.5 x 26 cm ∙ 2 pp

Tall and Short: Balance Studies

Everyone wants to wear clothes in a well-balanced way. But can balance be determined by height alone? We invited Anju, who is 172cm tall, and Shimoi who is 160cm, and asked four designers for their advice on how to dress for different body types.

"Rather than being orthodox, make it somewhat shocking."

13 and 14 are jackets and pants of the same size but made with different materials. The specific length of the jacket, which looks like a coat, creates a balanced look for both shorter and taller people — those who are shorter have a relaxed expression, while taller individuals achieve a sharp look. Item 13 is made of synthetic fabric, while item 14 is made of wool poplin. Products: Y's (Jacket 13: ¥23,800 / Jacket 14: ¥24,800 / Pants 13 and 14: ¥13,800 / Blouse 13: ¥9,800 / Blouse 14: ¥8,900)

Yamamoto Yohji

Basically, I want clothes to be worn in a way that leaves something loose or undone. It's stylish to wear something that is neatly put together, but that feels too conventional, and from a fashion perspective, it lacks excitement. Instead of being orthodox, I find a more shocking, bold way of wearing clothes to be more attractive. I want the clothes to bring out something within the person wearing them, showcasing their inner essence. I believe it's important to ignore old-fashioned ideas of balance and embrace shocking, unconventional ways of dressing, regardless of height. I think it's a truly wonderful approach.

15 and 16 are coats of the same size but made from different materials. The difference between the two is, of course, height, but the balance of the coats is visually appealing and beautiful on both. The white shirt, black sweater, and black and white gloves seem to make all the difference. Coat 15 is made of wool noil, while coat 16 is made of wool gabardine. Products: Y's (Coats 15 and 16: ¥39,000 / Pants 15 and 16: ¥13,800 / Sweater 16: ¥13,800)