so-en ∙ feb 1 1980

description

runway report for the spring / summer 80 tokyo collections, featuring yohji yamamoto and rei kawakubo alongside other prominent japanese designers of the time including kenzo takada.

notes

photo ∙ nakamura yoshihide, niyama toru, furuya hiroshi

published by bunka publishing bureau
softcover ∙ 20.5 x 26 cm ∙ 3 pp

'80 Spring / Summer Tokyo Collection Report

The 60th anniversary fashion show of Bunka Gakuen, titled "10 Designers Taking on the World," was held on November 1st and 2nd. Meanwhile, the "1980 Spring / Summer Collections" by members of T.D.6 (Top Designers 6) began on November 1st and concluded on November 19th. This issue brings together these two major events into a special feature, presenting the "1980 Spring / Summer Tokyo Collection Report." Receive the latest messages from the fashion designers who will lead the upcoming era of the 1980s.

Yamamoto Yohji ∙ Y's

Yohji Yamamoto's Y's collection always unmistakably carries his signature style. Even with the incorporation of mini-length pieces in line with current trends, it received unreserved applause.

He cites Woody Allen's "Interiors" as a memorable film, presenting a collection with the theme of "Y's Dress-Up." The overall atmosphere — intellectual, urban, and monochromatic — reflects his cinematic taste.

The color palette is restrained, centering around black and white, with muted cream, gray, purple, and red. Skirts are mostly above the knee, featuring straight silhouettes, relaxed shoulders and sleeves, and even shorts. Accessories like wide-brimmed hats reminiscent of a ten-gallon hat, oversized collars, and contrasting black-and-white stockings create a striking visual effect. The show blends dandyism with femininity, resulting in a simple yet sophisticated presentation.

The fabrics, always a focal point, included cotton piqué, herringbone, burberry, poplin, broadcloth, and voile. Rayon selections featured viscose, gabardine, and stripes. Additionally, pencil stripes and chambray linen were incorporated.

Kawakubo Rei ∙ Comme des Garçons

A long time ago, Rei Kawakubo once said, "I like the restrained atmosphere of uniforms". Watching the show, that sentiment resurfaced. The music, hair, makeup, the expressions of the models, and even the way they walked — all were austere, wrapped in a unique, almost monastic mood.

The color palette was centered around black and white, with only khaki, navy, brown, purple, and gray added. Nearly all the looks were dresses, with minimal accessories except for small hats. A striking detail was the large Puritan collars adorning the neckline. Skirt lengths remained consistently below the knee.

The fabrics were predominantly cotton, adding to the simplicity of the collection. Katsuragi, heavy poplin, and 12.5 ounce denim. Stylish denim blended with linen. Original fabrics such as acetate gabardine, rayon piqué, and rayon poplin were specially developed, featuring a glossy, firm, yet soft texture, ideal for suits. The draped feel of synthetic lace fabric also added an interesting touch.