ryuko tsushin ∙ apr 1 1979

description

the opening of the first ever y's for men store featured alongside an essay on men's style by yohji yamamoto. in contrast to the reverence he holds for womenswear, yohji's menswear has always been a little cheeky, suggestive of a man with refined sensibilities who also knows not to take himself too seriously. his musings are quite humorous, poking fun at the inherent absurdities of men’s fashion — observations that could only come from someone who has come full circle. this playful spirit serves as the basis for yohji's menswear, and can still be felt today some 45 years later.

notes

published by ryuko tsushin co. ltd.
softcover ∙ 21 x 29.5 cm ∙ 1 pp

It's just clothes, after all — Yohji Yamamoto ∙ Fashion Designer

The topic of men's fashion always leaves me at a loss. The biggest issue is that the people I see everyday are almost all involved in the fashion industry, which means I work in a very particular environment from the perspective of the average man. Talking about clothing from such a standpoint likely lacks universality, and I worry it might just sound ridiculous — like a frog in a well croaking proudly about something new. In other words, unless I know exactly who I'm talking to, it's very difficult to discuss fashion in a meaningful way.

For example, as a common approach, let’s say I choose to talk about fashion with the broader category of salarymen. Personally, I’m a big supporter of those drab gray suits they often wear. Since these individuals generally have little to do with sensitivity or aesthetic sense in clothing, I think the safest and most foolproof method is to wear something almost like a uniform — something predetermined and standardized.

When they occasionally try too hard — wearing colored shirts or flashy, bold-patterned ties — it only leaves me feeling bewildered. Most of these men, from their boyhood through young adulthood, were likely devoted to things like sports or martial arts, or to physics, biology, or political activism. They simply didn’t have time to focus on coordinating outfits. So whether it's about "what's trad" or "what's up with button-downs," none of that should really matter (and truly, it doesn’t matter). In terms of fashion, it's perfectly fine to consider being conservative as a man's true nature.

Or, if you really don’t know what to do, the best approach might be to adopt the most understated method that others are using, and maintain a subdued presence. Just because you’ve come into a bit of financial leeway, please be careful not to suddenly start wearing things like yellow sweaters and striped pants. For a man to wear a yellow sweater and have someone say it “suits him,” it would probably take about 20 years. And those flashy outfits that pro golfers unveil on the green? They’re the result of some kind of misunderstanding — so I sincerely advise against imitating them.

I always feel more at ease when I’m with a man who seems like he doesn’t care at all about fashion. I find it most exhausting to be around men who half-heartedly try to be trendy and act like they know what they’re doing. And when it comes to men who are so fashion-conscious that they dress better than women and wear eau de cologne — I have no idea what I’m supposed to talk to them about.

Also, I’ve always had doubts about the recently popular idea that clothing is something deeply internal. Frankly, it feels much clearer to just say, “It’s only clothes, after all.” In the end, I think it all comes down to the question of how much we care about outward appearances. There’s no such thing as a noble or shameful profession — and whether a job is seen as good or bad has nothing to do with its essence, only with how it looks from the outside. But whether or not others envy you is determined by that appearance. In that sense, men pay attention to how they dress. Simply put, a man wears his profession. We always have a tendency to admire or envy what isn’t ours, or what is opposite to us. So, for those who wish to be in a position others envy, it’s necessary to devote the utmost effort and attention to their appearance. In a state of “ecstasy and anxiety of being chosen,” one must always wear refined, carefully studied clothing, drive a luxury car without so much as a speck of dirt, and climb the stairs of a sleek, white office looking thoroughly bored — otherwise, they can’t be called a modern snob.

"This morning, as I woke up in bed, I felt sluggish and unmotivated, thinking I might just rest and waste the day away. But when I imagined pairing the navy sweater I bought yesterday with my grey pants from last year, and letting the white broadcloth shirt peek out, something about it made me think that today could actually be a good day. Just that thought gave me the resolve to get up. "If I do this, I’ll feel confident working today, and maybe people will see me as a hardworking man, dedicated to my tasks." It's not that work is exciting, or that I'm inspired by the goals I must achieve, but for the sake of the navy sweater I bought yesterday, I feel like it won’t be a waste to try. When I see those people who claim that work is their reason for living, dragging themselves to work every morning, barely taking care of what they eat or wear, I can't for the life of me figure out what makes them put up with such a miserable routine..." Even if that man were to write such a diary, I feel like it’s no longer my responsibility.

The opening of a new Y's for men boutique

Y's, which holds the quality of materials and comfort as its principle, maintains this philosophy not only in their women’s collection but also in the men’s products, giving them a unique charm that sets them apart from regular menswear. Recently, Y's has made the men's division independent, establishing a separate company called Y's for men. They have also opened a men's-only boutique. The boutique is located on the quiet, quaint Antique Street in Minami-Aoyama. The simple and calm yet modernly designed interior highlights the unique individuality of the clothing. Nowadays, there is a growing trend of incorporating high-quality items into one’s personal wardrobe, regardless of gender. For this reason, this boutique is a place that men, as well as women, would want to visit at least once.

Y's for men Boutique
Business Hours: 10:00 AM - 8:00 PM
Address: 6-2-7 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Phone: (498) 3404