Tokyo Men's Collections Autumn / Winter '83-'84
Comme des Garçons Homme
Rei Kawakubo, who holds her own alongside male designers and is also active in menswear, seems to possess an intimate understanding of men's tastes, despite being a woman herself.
Her skillful use of black has earned praise season after season, and this time, perhaps because it is an Autumn / Winter collection, the emphasis was once again on darker colors. As might be expected from a collection in which particular importance was placed on materials, the fabrics themselves have become the defining features of the designs.
For example, there is a tweed coat with knitted cuffs, and a Mongolian tweed jacket whose sleeves are made from a separate cotton fabric. Rather than simply blending different materials together on a single surface, these designs combine contrasting fabrics as distinct components of the garments. Such innovative approaches to combining materials could be said to be the defining characteristic of this collection.
Dress-up: Invited Guests
We've invited back the clients who attended fashion brand's exhibitions, familiar to readers of Mr. High Fashion. As fashion leaders who are always among the first to discover what the coming season has to offer, we sent them invitations asking them to select their favorite clothes for this Autumn from their extensive wardrobes and show us how they wear them.
(Second from right)
Tōru Hirakata (Age 25) — Teacher at Naganohara High School, Nagano Prefecture
1. Breakdown of the outfit
“The cotton jersey blouson-style shirt, tailored jacket, and denim trousers are all by Comme des Garçons Homme. The shoes are by Y's for men, the T-shirt is by Hanes, and the watch—which runs three minutes fast every hour—is by Longines.”
2. Personal philosophy and approach to fashion
“I try to dress in clothes that make me feel cheerful or pleasantly lighthearted when I put them on in the morning. I think about what I can wear that will make the ordinary experience of going through each day, one day after another, as enjoyable as possible.”
3. Favorite shops and places I frequently visit
“Since I've retreated to the countryside, whenever I have free time I usually go out to look at the mountain scenery. So I don't really have any particular places to recommend. I often go to Laforet, where there are lots of children's clothes, taking along my one-and-a-half-year-old son.”
4. My hobbies
“I recently bought a Suzuki 400cc motorcycle, and I've become rather obsessed with it. Other than that, I hope the third-year Class B students I'm currently responsible for will become a really wonderful class. I'd love for every one of them to graduate, and then for all of us to go out drinking together.”
Men's Everyday Bags
Hirofumi Sugawara (33) — Shopkeeper, Seidōkan (first page, bottom right)
1. How many do you own? (From pouches to trunks.)
About ten.
2. The price and brand of this bag.
¥28,000. Y's for men.
3. What you like about this bag, and what you're dissatisfied with.
Ease of use. A little stiff.
4. The type of bag you prefer.
Shoulder bag.
5. If you were to buy another bag, what kind of bag? What you pay attention to when buying, and your budget.
Something that can be used for a lifetime. There's nothing I pay particular attention to, but if I like it, I buy it. Within ¥100,000.
6. Stores and brands you frequently buy from.
Seidōkan. Y's for men.
7. When do you buy bags?
Business trips.
8. What's inside this bag?
Mainly planners and similar items; apart from those, a handkerchief, stomach medicine, and credit cards.
9. Do you change bags according to the season?
Only to the extent of changing to a bright colored cotton one in summer.
10. The necessity of bags.
I think of it as something worn on the body.
Akira Otsuka (31) — Shopkeeper, Jackie (second page, top right)
1. How many do you own? (From pouches to trunks.)
Seven.
2. The price and brand of this bag.
¥14,800. Y's for men.
3. What you like about this bag, and what you're dissatisfied with.
That it's lightweight. It's too soft, so it loses its shape.
4. The type of bag you prefer.
It varies depending on my mood at the time.
5. If you were to buy another bag, what kind of bag? What you pay attention to when buying, and your budget.
I haven't decided. If I find something I like, I buy it without shopping around. ¥40,000–50,000.
6. Stores and brands you frequently buy from.
My own shop. Y's for men.
7. When do you buy bags?
Irregularly.
8. What's inside this bag?
Writing implements, a change of clothes, wallet, cosmetics, cigarettes, and various other things.
9. Do you change bags according to the season?
In summer, lightweight nylon ones; in the other seasons, mostly leather shoulder bags.
10. The necessity of bags.
Except for travel and business trips, I don't need one, but I carry one because I don't like putting things in my pockets.
