high fashion ∙ february 1980

description

designer spotlight featuring yohji yamamoto and rei kawakubo's outlook on the 80s, documented at the turn of the decade. this is a historically relevant point in their careers, as it would have been right on the cusp of their international paris debut in the following years. both designers stand out amongst their peers for their distinctive signatures and key motifs that have remained steadfast for decades. it is interesting to note yohji's shift towards a stronger vision with creative integrity, as his collections in the years that followed would shake the world of fashion forever. it is also interesting to note rei's early perspective on interior spaces, as comme des garçons would completely revolutionize the concept of retail in the years to follow.

additional coverage of the spring / summer 1980 tokyo collections, featuring the y's (first page, left) and comme des garçons (second page, right) shows.

notes

photo ∙ masanori sato

published by bunka publishing bureau
softcover ∙ 21 x 29.5 cm ∙ 4 pp

Message for the '80s

Yohji Yamamoto

This season, Yohji Yamamoto's collection completely transformed the image of Y's under the theme of "New Forms." It was a stark departure from the deconstructed, understated style previously referred to as "Y's-esque". Instead, meticulously crafted garments were paired together and showcased one after another.

"Until now, particularly in the '70s, Y's was about creating clothes that embodied the sporty elegance of effortless coordination. We also made what you might call 'austere' clothes, selling chic and subdued styles under the Y's name. But given the current times, I felt that fashion in the '80s needed to inspire dreams. To achieve that, I wanted to present clothing with a strong statement," he explained.

"1980 is a turning point for Y's. I wanted to find out what was next for Yohji Yamamoto — not the future, but what comes next," he said. "The '70s were truly lucky for me. I’ve been working for ten years as Yohji Yamamoto of Y's, but honestly, I’m someone who likes to be lazy. It’s as if my name pushed me forward."

"Being at the top of a company is incredibly challenging, and I feel the weight of it as I work. There’s always work to be done, staff to manage, and we’re constantly chasing shows and exhibitions all year round. But I think it’s time to stop trying to look good and instead speak honestly. The product image might change, but I don’t want to control or hold back for appearances’ sake — I want to create what I truly want to create."

"Fashion, to me, is a philosophy of life. Take French films, for example. They might seem like they’re just capturing everyday life, but there’s something deeply moving in their perspective and sense of life. I feel envious of that kind of talent," he said passionately. We should pay attention to this vibrant energy of his.

Rei Kawakubo

She carries an inexplicable, mysterious aura, speaking in a calm and understated tone. She says being alone doesn’t bother her at all. When asked to assess her own personality, she describes herself as follows: "If I were to put it a bit dramatically, I feel like I embody both motion and stillness at the same time. Even on my days off, I can’t seem to just sit idly — I guess I have a restless nature."

Having founded Comme des Garçons eight years ago, she reflects on the journey, saying, "I’ve constantly experienced internal conflict, been distracted by others, and felt uncertain. But recently, I’ve grown to strongly assert that I am who I am." This newfound confidence has also influenced her decisions, including the choice to forego lipstick in her latest presentation.

This philosophy also extended to a show that featured a unique, understated makeup style. "I was advised to brighten up the makeup or add lipstick because it was a show, but I didn’t want to do that for the image I had in mind," she explained. As a result, the reaction was polarizing — some loved it, while others were strongly against it. "But that’s fine," she said, "because I believe the 1980s are a time where various trends coexist, and it’s an era driven by individual values." Rather than focusing on small details, she prioritizes creating an atmosphere and image.

She places great importance on publications and shows, saying, "Even when designing stores, I prioritize the image, even if it makes the store a little less inviting. Ultimately, I believe that connects to sales." With her interest in the visual, she remarked, "I’d like to try photography someday." This stems from her belief that "an image exists only in the creator’s mind, so it’s something I should do myself." She also expressed an interest in interior design, saying, "I want to create a sophisticated space." We can look forward to seeing what kind of imaginative spaces she will bring to life in the future.

Y's (Yamamoto Yohji)

Speaking of color, only a hint of red-violet was used. the overall collection was sharply composed in achromatic tones — white and black, with white dominating — leaving a strong and favorable impression. Key pieces included jackets with slightly oversized shoulders and shorter spencer-style lengths. Skirts fell just above the kneeline for an elegant yet contemporary look.

1. Red-violet jumpsuit with a bold design and a deep v-cut at the back running down to the waist.

2. White sack dress with a beige jacket. emphasized by a large, sailor style collar with a unique twist.

3. White cotton spencer jacket with a cotton jersey skirt. A fresh and minimalistic ensemble.

This collection showcased Yohji Yamamoto’s mastery in blending structure, simplicity, and subtle accents of color to create impactful designs.

Comme des Garçons (Kawakubo Rei)

The show opened with a strikingly unexpected moment of silence, broken only by the sound of camera shutters. Models, resembling bronze statues without lipstick, emerged in jet-black dresses, creating a dramatic and captivating introduction. Key features of the collection included: Low-Waisted Midi Dresses: A central theme, emphasizing understated elegance. Suit with a High Collar: Inspired by traditional Chinese attire, evoking a utilitarian yet stylish aesthetic. Jumper Skirts Paired with White Cotton Shirts: Reminiscent of early "Comme des Garçons" styles, evoking a sense of nostalgia.

1. Indigo blue linen suit accented with white stitching for a refined yet casual look.

2. Black cotton jersey t-shirt and cotton seersucker capri pants: a perfect blend of comfort and sophistication.

3. Low-waisted tank dresses: made from lightweight black cotton, these running-style dresses were minimalistic and airy.

The collection masterfully combined elements of past and present, showcasing Rei Kawakubo's ability to reimagine and reinterpret the essence of Comme des Garçons with an innovative twist.