an an ∙ oct 1981

description

Full looks from Y's and Comme des Garçons worn by Yumiko Kurebayashi, a popular model that often graced the cover of an an magazine during this era.

Also featured is a reader style makeover, with consultation and styling by Yohji.

notes

published by heibon shuppan co. ltd.
softcover ∙ 23.5 x 29.5 cm ∙ 5 pp

Yumiko Kurebayashi

Harajuku is now said to be the forefront of fashion. Just nearby, in Jingumae 2-chome, Yumiko Kurebayashi grew up surrounded by a warm family — especially her kind father. She attended Sendagaya Elementary and Harajuku Junior High, where she was an energetic yet slightly shy student. She served as captain of the volleyball team and the folk song club. She had a first love. She kept an exchange diary. In short, she was the kind of ordinary girl you might call “the Yoshiko-chan next door.” And now, she’s in full stride — one of the most talked-about models today. Unlike traditional models, she has a relaxed, effortlessly urban sensibility that creates a fresh, unique sparkle. anan is now shining a spotlight on Yumiko Kurebayashi.

Comme des Garçons — Rei Kawakubo

The deep, subdued colors and the unique atmosphere of Kawakubo’s designs make them difficult to wear. But that’s exactly why they’re the clothes I want to try wearing all the more.

Jacket ¥35,000, Glen check jacket ¥34,000, Flannel pants ¥17,000, Socks ¥1,600, Cordovan boots ¥31,000 (All from Comme des Garçons)

Her well-balanced, natural proportions and still slightly innocent facial features make her, I believe, a true representative of the new generation of models.

Coat ¥63,000, Poncho ¥19,000, Flannel pants ¥17,000, Tights ¥4,800, Cordovan boots ¥31,000 (All from Comme des Garçons)

Y's — Yohji Yamamoto

These are the kind of clothes I’d like to wear once I’ve grown into a slightly older, more refined woman. In real life, not quite yet… But being able to wear clothes like this — ones I aspire to — is part of what makes being a model so enjoyable.

Scarf ¥9,000, Tweed jacket ¥35,000, Pants ¥22,000, Shoes ¥21,800, (All from Y's)

She’s one of the rare models who wears clothes with her own sense of intention. This mindset — that wearing is part of the job — is important, but it’s not something often found among Japanese models. That’s why she’s a valuable person. It’s just a shame she’s a bit too beautiful.

Cotton gabardine coat ¥38,000, Blanket jacket ¥32,000, Pants ¥18,000, Shoes ¥21,800 (All from Y's)

Fashion Life Advice — We need to change the mindset of choosing things just because they’re “safe.” — Yohji Yamamoto, Y's

Breaking free from "neutral"! Wanting to expand her fashion horizons. Akiko Yoshizawa, 24 years old, Homemaker’s assistant.

“Ever since my student days, I’ve been dressing in a neutral (preppy) style for over seven years now. Combining red, white, and navy rarely goes wrong, but it’s become so monotonous. I’m thinking it’s time to not just change my clothes, but also my hairstyle and makeup — to break free from ‘neutral’ and expand my fashion horizons…”

Tennis, skiing, photography, flower arrangement — she has a wide range of hobbies. What she’s most interested in right now is sign language. No matter how busy she is, she makes sure to attend her weekly sign language class. Her dream is to one day earn a teaching license in flower arranging and use sign language to share the beauty of flowers with people who have physical disabilities. She’s 24 years old, a Virgo.

Editorial Team: Ms. Yoshizawa, could you tell us a bit more specifically about your current style?

Yoshizawa: I usually stick to skirts paired with shirts or sweaters, mainly in tricolor combinations — red, white, and navy.

Editorial Team: What about pants?

Yoshizawa: I don’t really wear them because they emphasize my waistline. At most, I’ll wear jeans.

Editorial Team: But you’ve grown a little tired of your current style?

Yoshizawa: Exactly. I seriously feel that way — I really want a change.

Yamamoto: You say you want to change, but even just the shoes are completely different. The kind of shoes someone with a neutral style wears are nothing like the ones we make. Can you even wear completely flat shoes? The shoes from Y’s are all flat, low-cut shoes with no heels at all.

Yoshizawa: Completely flat shoes? They’re cute, but thinking about how they’d go with the clothes I already own… I do feel a bit hesitant.

Yamamoto: That’s exactly it. If you really want to change your style and broaden your fashion horizons, then try wearing flat shoes just once. They’ll completely change the impression you give. For starters, the way you walk will change. Eventually, wearing high heels will start to feel pointless. Even your way of thinking and your approach to life will begin to shift. I want to create clothes that reflect the way a person lives.

Yohji Yamamoto’s advice was quite candid. “If you want to change your style,” he said, “you need to start with your everyday clothes.” The outfit he selected was a beige, workwear-style jacket at first glance, paired with dark gray pants featuring fine pencil stripes. It took nearly three hours to settle on this look. Yoshizawa and Mr. Yamamoto tried more than ten different outfits, swapping them out one after another, with Yoshizawa often tilting her head uncertainly. A roomy khaki-colored dress turned out to suit her surprisingly well, while a navy dress brought to mind a woman strolling the streets of 1930s Berlin.

(Image Captions, right to left) First, try pairing an extremely simple outfit with a scarf. / I tried wearing a loose-fitting dress with a bloused silhouette, but... / The oversized sweater didn’t work either — the heaviness on the sides of her hair made the overall look feel unbalanced.

Though she had been hesitant at first, pants and khaki tones actually suited her when she tried them on. However, since she is petite (153 cm), they chose straight-cut pants with minimal volume to maintain overall balance. Even the hairstyle she’d been unsure about looked much neater just by pulling the sides up. She might actually look better going for a full short cut.

“Khaki and pants — this was my first time trying both,” said Yoshizawa. “From now on, I want to stop choosing clothes just because they’re ‘safe’ or because they ‘look feminine.’ I’ve realized that it’s more important to choose what I truly want to wear — and just realizing that made today really meaningful.”

(Image Caption) Peaked lapel jacket ¥35,000, Striped stole ¥9,000, Bag ¥16,000, Striped cuffed pants ¥18,000, Side-loop shoes ¥23,000 (All from Y's)

Do you have any concerns about fashion? anan is here to help. Please send your concerns — along with a photo, your height, weight, age, BWH (bust, waist, hip) measurements, and phone number —  written in detail to the “Fashion Life Advice” column.