an an ∙ november 1981

description

Coverage of Yohji Yamamoto's first 'official' show in Paris for Spring / Summer 1982, as mentioned in Part 16 of the Nikkei Asia memoir. This would mark the arrival of a radical new perspective to the international fashion sphere. Along with Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons, this new wave would be described as the "Black Shock", shaking the industry to its core. A month after this presentation, this same collection would be re-shown at the Denen Coliseum in Tokyo to massive fanfare.

notes

published by heibon shuppan co. ltd.
softcover ∙ 23.5 x 29.5 cm ∙ 2 pp

“Wearing just a shirt and pants, I went off to Paris with the thought of putting on a show.” — Yohji Yamamoto on his first show in Paris.

In recent years, the advance of Japanese designers into Paris has been remarkable, but during the Paris Collection for Spring–Summer 1982, held in mid-October, Yohji Yamamoto made his first appearance and became a hot topic in Paris.

Since opening his shop YOHJI YAMAMOTO in Paris’s Les Halles this February, Yohji Yamamoto has steadily captured the hearts of Parisian youth. For him, this show was a crucial test — a touchstone — for forecasting his future success on the grand stage of Paris.

As it was his first show, interest was high, and nearly 1,000 people packed into the Pavillon Gabriel — one of the main venues alongside the special tent set up in the Bois de Boulogne — filling it to capacity.

“From the beginning, I absolutely didn’t want to express things like Japonica or Japanese in a superficial way. That kind of thing comes out no matter what you do. But through the simplicity of form, or through breaking down structure — I think people were able to sense something like the aim behind how I make clothes, through the show.”

A good example of that would be the use of the swallow-tail cut from a tailcoat in the skirts of tunics and dresses, or how the length of the pants was varied in a pant ensemble. This autumn and winter in Paris, pants are so popular that people are saying the city might be all about pants looks. In the show, pants of various lengths appeared—from just below the knees to the ankles. Among them, the so-called midi-length pants — reaching to the middle of the calf — seemed to catch the eyes of people in the Paris fashion scene.

Comments like, “Just like the shows by Mugler and Montana this time, these aren’t exactly clothes you can wear on the street…” could be heard among the audience. But as Yohji Yamamoto himself said, “To put it a bit dramatically, I think people were able to receive it on a spiritual level. It seems they were able to sense its intangible meaning.” It’s clear that the simple and functional spirit of these ‘clothes of the heart’ was understood by the people of Paris as well.

You can tell from the coverage in the fashion section of the French newspaper Libération, which came out right after the show, where it was praised — alongside the Comme des Garçons show — as “very sophisticated.” Let us now present a preview of the October 15 show, which was well-received in Paris, using just-arrived photographs.

Image Captions

(Page 1, Right)
Photographs that were handed out to fashion journalists and buyers at the show.

(Page 1, Left)
A dress that drew attention for its midi length. The color is a deep navy mineral tone, characteristic of Y's.

(Page 2, Left to Right, Top to Bottom)
A skirt with a swallow-tail cut along the sides, at a length just below the knees. It uses the much-talked-about hand-crumpled fabric.

The swallow-tail cut also appeared in the skirts.

A loosely woven linen pant ensemble.

At the finale, Mr. Yamamoto also appeared, wearing a shirt and pants.

A vivid brick-colored top and bottom. The top has no collar.

The tropical-style wrap skirt was also well received.

The shapes of the left and right lapels on the jacket are different.

Soft lines and soft materials were the defining features.