an an ∙ may 1982

description

Seasonal coverage of the A/W '82 Paris Collections.

notes

published by heibon shuppan co. ltd.
softcover ∙ 23.5 x 29.5 cm ∙ 1 pp

’82–’83 Autumn/Winter Paris Collection Report

This season’s collections were presented mainly in four tents set up in the courtyard of the Louvre Palace. While there have been rumors of Paris’ declining influence, the designers' dedicated and impassioned work still holds undeniable allure. Our fashion director, Harumi Shima, has selected standout pieces from the collection that caught her attention.

Mr. Yamamoto of Y’s joins Paris Collection with a unisex sensibility.

This is the collection from Yohji Yamamoto, a designer who could be called a leading figure of Japan’s new wave. Some say the collection feels a bit stiff, but its simplicity and subtly masculine touches give it a unisex quality that feels distinctly like him. Layering a vest over an unassuming tweed jacket, and the combination of a dyed blouson with pants — it’s a different kind of new wave from Montana, and a compelling one.

Last year in Japan, Mr. Yamamoto held a collection show at Denen Coliseum, drawing a large crowd and making headlines. But in the Paris Collection, he is still a newcomer. We look forward to seeing him continue to present exciting work and become a truly global figure. In this collection, compared to others, there was a slight sense of something missing in the accessories. We hope to see more playful and creative accessory styling that reflects Mr. Yamamoto’s unique sensibility.

Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons has finally introduced mini-length skirts.

In any case, Comme des Garçons, known for its individuality even in Japan, presented a highly talked-about collection in Paris. The clothes, with their distinctively dark yet beautiful aesthetic, were quite impressive even in Paris. What was especially surprising was the debut of mini-length pieces — something Kawakubo had never created before. The collection was filled with bold ideas, including padded coats, dresses, and garments constructed like squares of fabric pieced together.