an an ∙ aug 1981

description

Rei Kawakubo at 38 years old, published a few months prior to her major debut in Paris. Here she talks about her day-to-day life as the president of a then 12-year old Comme des Garçons. From her morning routine, to interior sensibilities, pastimes, consumption habits, and cooking, these seemingly mundane observations provide insight into her modus operandi.

Also featured is a reader style makeover, with consultation and styling by Rei herself. Foreshadowing the unprecedented cultural and economic prosperity of Japan’s bubble era, it reflects the bold spirit of a new type of fashionable woman emerging at the time.

Last is a page dedicated to the latest items from various brands with CdG covered on the left side of the page.

notes

published by heibon shuppan co. ltd.
softcover ∙ 23.5 x 29.5 cm ∙ 4 pp

My Lifestyle ∙ Rei Kawakubo

Even if she says she’s just like everyone else, one can’t help but be curious about Rei Kawakubo’s way of life.

Monday — The newspaper is Asahi. She starts by reading the “Tensei Jingo” column.

Even when I set an alarm clock, I always wake up before the bell rings. Unless it’s a day with a show or an exhibition, there’s no particular reason — but somehow, it’s become a habit. On summer mornings, I slip out of bed just before 7am. The walk from my apartment to the office takes less than five minutes. So I have a good two hours entirely to myself. For someone who spends most of the day caught up in work, morning time is precious. No matter how busy I am, I make sure never to skip breakfast. Toast, an apple, and coffee — that’s my typical breakfast menu. There’s no specific reason, but since my family subscribed to the Asahi Shimbun when I was a child, I still read the Asahi today. The first thing I read is “Tensei Jingo.” That too has become part of my morning routine. Sometimes, I even wash the dishes from the night before.

(Image Caption) I arrive at the office at 9am. Starting with Senken Shimbun, I make sure to look through all the major industry papers.

Tuesday — In a pale beige-colored room, I live with a gray cat.

Sometimes, I even think to myself that I’m using things in a rather indulgent way. Because I still haven’t found a clock that suits the atmosphere of my living room, I turn on the TV — without sound — to use as a substitute for a clock. And unfortunately, even when I look through interior features in magazines, I still haven’t come across a clock that makes me think, “This is it.” What defines the mood of the room are the color of the walls and the carpet — a pale beige tone. I’ve coordinated the furniture to match this color, but it’s not a shade I particularly like. Still, since it’s not a home I own, I hesitate to repaint the walls however I like. And finally, since six months ago, I’ve stopped living alone. To be precise, I should say that a life of one person and one animal has begun. The reason we started living together was very simple: I was completely taken with the beautiful shading of its gray fur. Since then, preparing meals for the cat has also become part of my daily routine. The cat comes to greet me at the entrance. Spending the entire day in this room, the cat starts to feel more like the true owner of the space. Like with the cat, I also feel a bit of resistance when it comes to having things from my private life — things very close to me — photographed or shown off to others with pride. Some might think I’m exaggerating. But my daily life is very ordinary, and I’m not a special person either, so being treated as if I were something special feels a bit embarrassing — something I’m not very comfortable with.

Wednesday — I enjoy watching films at Iwanami Hall.

It might make me seem unsociable, but once work is over, I prefer to be left alone. I’m not the type to unwind by drinking, and in fact, I feel like doing so only adds to my stress. When I’m alone, I can feel at ease anywhere — even if there are people around me, as long as they’re strangers. It’s not necessarily because of that, but I still don’t want to miss exhibitions by painters I like. I still regret not being able to go see the Matisse exhibition held at the National Museum of Modern Art due to work. I also try to keep up with films, but often I can’t go because of my work schedule. Since the screening cycles tend to be longer, I often end up going to Iwanami Hall, and I enjoy the films shown there. I used to be interested in photobooks of Western films and collected many of them, but now I’d like to collect photobooks about travel — places like Tibet or the remote regions of Africa. I’m very interested in the people who live in those places.

(Image Caption) Photobooks that speak to the breadth of her interests. Many were ordered from overseas.

Thursday — The Citroën has expanded my range of movement.

When it comes to driving, there are men who give you a look that says, “It’s not really for women,” but I don’t agree with that. If a woman has a job, I think she’s perfectly capable of making quick decisions. When it comes down to it, I believe the one with more nerve is the one who wins. That, I can say with confidence. I got my license seven years ago. It felt like I barely managed to get it, squeezing it in between exhibitions and shows. If you take a break, you have to start over again from the beginning — I really didn’t want that, so I remember struggling quite a bit to find the time. The Citroën is my second car. I bought it used, and at that time had it repainted black. People often say, “It’s the same color as the clothes you design,” but I hadn’t really been conscious of that myself. A car expands your range of movement. That said, I don’t particularly enjoy driving as a hobby. To be precise, thanks to the car, I’ve been able to use my time more efficiently. I usually only drive on my days off, but for a woman with a job, even a day off isn’t a time to just relax and take naps. There’s a week’s worth of cleaning, laundry... taking things to the dry cleaner, or going to the nearby Hakuyosha to pick up cleaning, and buying a week’s worth of groceries to stock the fridge. On a day off filled with errands, the car becomes a big help.

(Image Caption) The mileage is just under 30,000 kilometers.

Friday — I don’t trust appliances that try to serve two functions in one.

That’s where my distrust of multi-functional machines comes from. In other words, if something were to break, the more complex it is, the more time and effort it takes to repair. I really do think of myself as the type who finds things bothersome. And I also seem to have the kind of personality that feels very uncomfortable causing trouble for others. Of course, I can’t fix things on my own. Which means I’d have to rely on someone else — and that, more than anything, feels like a hassle. Rather than trying to overcome my lack of tech skills, I tend to think it’s better not to rely on machines with complicated functions. I do think they must be convenient, but for reasons like these, I prefer one function per device.

Saturday — I use unscented cream sold at the pharmacy.

I don’t use skincare products from cosmetics companies. I feel like this is something that naturally happens once you’ve had a certain amount of experience. I think the same when I look at my close friends. Quite a few of them use things like Johnson’s baby cream or oil in place of regular skincare products… I’ve been using an unscented cream from the pharmacy for a long time, and it seems to suit my skin. This applies not only to skin, but to everything: I believe that the more natural the state, the better. I tend to be the type whose face shows signs of fatigue from work, which I’m a bit self-conscious about. On those kinds of days, I avoid visiting my parents’ house — because I don’t want to worry them. Or rather, I might end up getting caught and given a long lecture. I do appreciate it, though.

Sunday — Once every two weeks, I cook rice in a rice cooker.

I don’t do sports or plan my meals specifically for health reasons, but if I had to say, the fact that I don’t have a habit of buying and eating meat on my own might be something that’s good for my body. I’ve always preferred light Japanese food. When I cook for myself, it usually ends up being things like grilled fish or simmered dishes. It might sound more like a breakfast menu, but that’s what my Sunday dinners tend to look like. About once every two weeks, I cook rice too. I don’t feel the urge to take time away from work to do sports, but one thing that impressed me when I went to China was that public swimming pools open as early as 6 a.m. If public facilities in Japan were like that, I might actually feel like going swimming. If I worked a typical 9-to-5 job, I could use my evenings, but that’s just not how it works for me. Doing the ordinary things, in an ordinary way — that’s how I approach both work and my private life.

(Image Caption) As the owner and designer of Comme des Garçons, Rei Kawakubo is extremely well known — but when it comes to her private life, she remains shrouded in mystery. It’s often the most captivating women who leave this kind of impression.

Fashion Life Advice — “To wear black, you need an 180-degree shift in mindset.” — Rei Kawakubo, Comme des Garçons

I want to try wearing black — to be seen as elegant, not wild. Masami Harada, 23 years old, works in publishing.

“You’d be a hit at a bar in Ginza — you’ve got that sultry look.” That’s something middle-aged men at the office say to me from time to time. Maybe they think it’s a compliment, but to a 23-year-old woman, it feels like an insult. I end up worrying — is it my makeup? My clothing? I want to wear black with elegance. And if I can dress in a way that feels both intelligent and radiant — that would be the ideal!

Born and raised in Yokohama, she’s a true Hamako (Yokohama girl) by nature. When asked, “Who is your greatest love?” she blushed and replied, “I’ll forever be in unrequited love with Atsunosuke Yoshihito.” As a receptionist at a publishing company, she hopes to transform her image into something a little more intellectual. Upon hearing her concerns, the editorial team immediately thought of Rei Kawakubo as the perfect consultant. The black clothing of Comme des Garçons, stripped of all unnecessary elements — it seemed like the ideal match to fulfill her wish. Until now, her style has leaned toward clearly defined, bright colors. She tends to prefer simple designs. A self-professed lover of gold, she always wears a pendant, earrings, and bracelet. She also favors sparkly sweaters and bags. Gold is a key part of her personal style. Her makeup features pearl-pink lipstick and pearlescent eyeshadow — she seems to like a slightly metallic look.

(Image Caption) A pre-makeover meeting with Ms. Kawakubo and Ms. Harada.

First, things began with a meeting between Ms. Harada, Rei Kawakubo, the stylist, and the hair & makeup artist. Makeup artist Imazeki opened the conversation with: “The issue is hair and makeup. If you want to wear black well, you need to know the bare minimum of what suits you. Especially for Japanese women, very few can pull off pearl-toned pink lipstick. You should absolutely stop using it.” “But I thought pearl pink suited me the best... I still have half a dozen of the same shade left. What should I do?” When it comes to fashion, fixed ideas are the enemy. In the end, her makeup was completely reworked. As for her hair, it was decided to go bold and cut it short to match the black clothing. For the eyes, non-pearl eyeshadow was applied, layered in a gradient from brown to orange to yellow starting at the lash line. For the lips, red and brown were blended together to avoid creating a flat, pasted-on look. Her hair was cut into a European-style bob, five centimeters below the chin. Harada, who had never worn her hair shorter than shoulder-length, seemed cheerful while receiving makeup advice, but now looked a bit uneasy. The moment the scissors touched her hair, she closed her eyes. As her expression gradually turned tearful, Imazeki, perhaps sensing her nerves, began cutting more slowly. Finally, the cut was complete. Harada cautiously opened her eyes and said, “I was worried… but it feels surprisingly light and lovely.”

(Image Caption) A big decision — she cuts her hair!

At last, the long-awaited challenge: wearing black. Harada expressed concern, saying, “Even with black, if the clothing is too drapey, it might make me look even more sultry.” Taking that into account, Rei Kawakubo selected the outfit in the photo: a wool shirt, cropped pants, and a jacket. “Wow… I’m really going to wear pants this length? I’m a fan of pants, but I wonder if I can pull these off,” she said as she stepped into the fitting room. When she came out, she was wearing socks and low-heeled shoes for the first time since elementary school. Her first words upon seeing herself in the mirror: “These shoes look like Donald Duck’s! The socks and pant length feel so different — like an invader or something,” she said, shy and visibly bashful. Kawakubo, smiling wryly, said: “You want to change your image, don’t you? Then you need to let go of your biases and make a 180-degree shift in mindset. Stand tall and carry yourself with confidence — that’s what matters most. You’re beautiful, so you can wear anything.” When it comes to fashion, confidence really is an essential spice. Even at the fitting stage, Harada was already managing to wear black quite well. It seemed she had shed the sultry image she had feared. A hint of cool, urban allure was beginning to emerge.

With makeup finished, it was finally time for the photo shoot. Kawakubo gave this piece of advice: “Try not to wear accessories. Black looks best when worn on its own.” However, since this was Harada’s first time trying on Comme des Garçons clothing, we wanted her to express her own personality. So she wore some of her gold accessories: earrings, a bracelet, and a choker with an elephant charm. “Wearing gold accessories makes me feel at ease. I think I can wear black well like this,” she said. By bringing out her own character, the feeling of being ‘worn by the clothes’ disappeared, and the clothes began to reflect her expression instead.

“Wearing just black from the start is tough,” said stylist Ms. Noguchi. “For beginners, it’s probably better to play around a little. For example, instead of accessories, you could add a black pochette. And if you're worried about the feet, colored stockings with low-heeled pumps can make the look easier to wear.” Harada did a full turn in front of the mirror, looking satisfied. “I’m so happy that black suits me more than I expected! I’m still a bit shy about it, but it’s really just a matter of building confidence now. I’m looking forward to this fall. Maybe I’ll start by buying a pair of pants and trying them with the shirts and sweaters I already own.”

Jacket ¥35,000, Sweater ¥24,000, Pants ¥19,000, Shoes ¥29,500 (All from Comme des Garçons)

We accept questions and concerns related to your personal style and fashion. If you would like to apply, please write your question in detail and include photos (showing both your face and full body), along with your height, weight, and BWH (bust, waist, hip) measurements, and send them to the address below: 〒1 Tokyo, Chuo-ku, Tsukiji 1-7-10, Heibon Publishing anan "Fashion Life Advice" column

As expected, pants are the mainstream item this fall. Best-selling pieces also remain simple, making full use of each designer’s unique character. (Comme des Garçons)

Even the designer brand Comme des Garçons shows efforts that take sales into account. While subtly incorporating trends, the color palette is kept subdued and unified, pursuing the mood of a mature woman. “Because the designs are orthodox and simple, I really want people to wear them to the office as well,” says Ms. Takeda. “This fall, we’re especially focusing on jackets and pants. Depending on the piece, we plan to use bright primary colors like yellow, red, and blue as accents — while keeping navy and black as the core tones,” she adds. The pieces aren’t flashy, and the designs aren’t overly elaborate — they maintain a calm and composed feel. With a coordinated look like the full-body photo above, you can enjoy a touch of style even in your everyday workwear. This understated, refined mood is one of Comme des Garçons’ defining qualities. Another notable feature in this fall’s collection is the use of buttons made from buffalo horn on dresses. It’s the kind of thoughtful detail that brings quiet delight. Even the shoes have been carefully designed for smooth, comfortable wear. True to Rei Kawakubo’s consistently thorough approach, Comme des Garçons shows meticulous adjustments even in the parts that aren’t immediately noticeable — with a level of care that’s almost enviable.

(Image Caption) Ms. Takeda of Comme des Garçons. This fall, she says they are focusing on jackets and pants.

Right: Wool mesh cardigan ¥26,000, Pants ¥19,000, Shoulder bag ¥25,000, Socks ¥1,600, Wingtip shoes ¥29,500 (all from Comme des Garçons). The mood of the wool mesh cardigan changes depending on how you button it.

Left: Lamb mossa dress ¥43,000, Oil-knit turtleneck sweater ¥25,000 (both from Comme des Garçons). A major feature this fall is the use of buffalo horn buttons — not just on this dress, but across the collection.

Tartan check stole ¥14,800 (Comme des Garçons). Size: 130cm × 180cm. In addition to black and yellow, the tartan check is available in black and red, navy and green, navy and natural, and green and natural color combinations. Although it wasn’t used in the fashion show, it was part of the collection from the planning stage. Accessories are designed to coordinate easily with Comme des Garçons clothing.

Plain, classic-looking shoes ¥29,500 (Comme des Garçons). Available in black and dark brown. Before being finalized for production, the fit around the opening was too tight and difficult to wear, so that part was adjusted for easier wear — without changing the design itself. While not particularly flashy, these shoes pair well with both skirts and pants.