A/W 18 Type 936 Hooded Shepherd's Coat Indian Black Dyed

19Oz Extra Heavyweight Cotton Cross Weave Denim Body

Tender Cross Weave denims are woven in England on unbleached cotton warps. Denim is normally woven with an indigo warp and an ecru weft, but Cross Weave denim reverses this-the weft is Japanese rope-dyed ringspun 25 dips indigo cotton yarn. To ensure a deep colour, extra picks (weft lines) are pushed in, resulting in interesting characteristics, such as the dimpling in the surface of 12oz Cross Weave. Despite this, Cross Weave denim shows more ecru yarn and textural variation than a standard denim. The appearance of the original 10oz fabric was inspired by a pair of vintage British Rail worker’s uniform trousers, cut from a lightweight denim with a very distinct twill line. With wear the deep indigo from the weft yarn will lift and transfer onto the ecru warp, resulting in fades in the indigo and reverse staining onto the raw cotton. Cross Weave denim garments are cut at right angles to the fabric (whereas they are usually cut along the roll), so the indigo weft runs up and down the leg, as a warp normally would. The cloth is woven in a left hand twill, but cut as jeans it appears to run to the right. Consequently, although this is a left hand twill fabric the jeans skew clockwise, as a right hand twill normally would. A ‘Doppler’ version of the extra heavy 19oz denim fabric has graded weft stripes of Ryeland wool woven in with the indigo cotton.

50% Ryeland Wool 50% Cotton Doppler Stripes

Wool for woven and knitted garments in A/W 2018 were shorn from a small flock of Ryeland sheep raised in the Scottish Borders. Their wool was offered exclusively to Tender and has never before been used for clothing. The Ryeland breed is one of the longest-established in Britain, thought to have originally descended from Spanish Merinos. Medieval records show a flock of 300 Ryeland sheep at Dore Abbey in Herefordshire, where the wool was collected and processed for shipment overseas. Ryeland wool was particularly prized in Italy and Flanders, for spinning into the finest yarns which were used as the standard for other wools. In the 16th Century, Elizabeth I is said to have received a gift of Ryeland wool stockings, and thereafter insisted on wearing only clothes made from the yarn. The ‘Wool Sack’ on the Chancellor’s seat at the House of Lords was originally stuffed with raw Ryeland fleeces. Today, Ryeland wool is unusual as its varied colours and relatively slow growth make it unsuitable for commercial farming, however its texture, weight, and natural colours are second to none. The last photo pictures the specific flock, courtesy of William.

100% Cotton Sump Cloth Hood Lining

Sump cloth is a sturdy but fairly loosely woven industrial cotton canvas made to line trays under oily machine parts and soak up extra grease. It's woven with a red stripe down the middle, which is used to orient the fabric, but makes a nice random stripe in clothing.

Indian Black Overdye

First described by the naturalist Pliny the Elder around the middle of the First Century CE, alongside black dyes obtained from burnt ivory (“elephantinon”) and cuttlefish (“sæpia”), he simply says: “We have indicum also, a substance imported from India, the composition of which is at present unknown to me.” The pigment is in fact a dried and powdered clay, traditionally used as a house paint, or mixed with size (dissolved starch) to make Indian ink. True Indian Black was later replaced with crushed charcoal as a more readily available alternative.

Cotton Sewing Thread

Garment Dyed With Indian Black Ink

Naturally Wrinkled State Following The Dye Procedure

Dry Clean Or Hand Wash Cool