Exploring the Autumn / Winter '80-'81 Tokyo Collections
In next month's issue, our magazine will feature a special "1980-81 Autumn / Winter Tokyo Collections" coverage. As preparations for the Tokyo Collections (held from late May to early June) were in full swing, we visited designers in their ateliers to gain insight into their creative process. We explored the behind-the-scenes stories leading up to the final runway presentation and asked the designers about their current thoughts and approach to fashion. What will the final show bring? Stay tuned for the September issue!
Urban Natural Fabrics Are "A Blend of Natural and Synthetic Fibers"
— Yamamoto Yohji (Y's)
Yohji Yamamoto is well known as a designer who embraces natural fabrics. However, this time, he surprises us by saying, "Right now, what interests me most is synthetic fibers. This collection will focus primarily on synthetics."
For the past two years, he has felt a limit to the conventional approach of using cotton and linen in summer and wool in winter. In a city where asphalt and concrete have replaced nature, materials like nylon — which protect people from rain and wind — could be considered urban natural fabrics. What excites him is that synthetic fibers, once merely imitations of natural fabrics, have now developed their own unique textures and colors. This time, he has fully embraced synthetics, incorporating them in a distinct Y’s style.
Regarding silhouettes, Yamamoto explains: "I call it 'fit & flare,' though I worry that term might be misunderstood. Once the body is freed from constricting clothing, it never wants to be confined again. So, I fit only the crucial areas — shoulders, bust, and waist — while keeping the rest loose."
The use of synthetics also impacts color. Traditional Y’s shades like navy, black, wine, and gray have taken a backseat, and instead, he has introduced a broader spectrum — covering all 360 degrees of the color wheel — with an overall lighter tone. Another exciting development is the debut of floral prints. For the first time, Y’s features classic floral patterns on 100% nylon fabric.
Last season, the collection centered around "Y’s Dress-Up", a reaction against the trend of mistaking casual dressing for careless dressing. Yamamoto’s philosophy remains unchanged: creating clothing for bold, active women who live vividly. With fresh colors and innovative fabrics, this upcoming show is set to be a refreshing experience for Y’s fans.
Black Condensed into the World of Hard Romance
— Kawakubo Rei (Comme des Garçons)
Comme des Garçons commissioned Sarah Moon to shoot their image photography, and Rei Kawakubo is thrilled with the results. The black-and-white photographs feel fresh, but the color she is most focused on right now remains black. Fabrics such as matelassé, jacquard, satin, flannel, and men’s suiting materials each bring out different expressions, even within the same black. Kawakubo has been thinking about ways to embrace the quality of these materials while keeping the look relaxed.
Many of the silhouettes feature a sense of volume, so to maintain balance, the lengths are slightly shorter, though mini lengths do not appear. Pants are slightly oversized with tapered hems. Collars also serve as a key design feature, with black dresses adorned with a variety of white collar styles to enjoy. Blouses paired with two-piece sets have moved away from frilly and lacy collars, favoring more structured, mannish styles. While black remains dominant, navy and gray also appear in the collection, and a new addition this season is camel, used in thick, single-layered coats. Prints are limited, with selective camouflage patterns appearing only in small sections.
Accessories include fur chokers and bow ties, extensively paired with mannish suits. This season, Kawakubo has minimized the romantic elements reminiscent of <Mädchen in Uniform>, instead drawing inspiration from the hard romance of <Quadrophenia>, often described as the British <Easy Rider>. With this in mind, great effort has been put into the models’ makeup, hair, venue design, and music to complete the aesthetic. At the show, PR booklets featuring Sarah Moon’s photography will be distributed. Comme des Garçons plans to continue this series, with the next targeted photographer being the female artist Deborah Turbeville, known for her structural compositions.
