A/W 95 Sleeveless Basque Jacket Bone

Sleeveless tailored jacket in heavyweight cotton wool. Features a raw edged loop closure collar, darted body with a single button front, and side waist pockets. Finished with full interior lining in rayon.

Reminiscent of a Victorian era basque bodice with sculptural shaping and a suppressed waist achieved through pronounced diagonal front darts and princess seams at the back. While this one is the same size as the other listed version, this one fits smaller because its fabric is much thicker and robust. The pockets are shallow and placed close to the centre for a peculiar stance when the hands are placed inside. The raw edged collar disrupts the sense of historic formality for a striking balance between romance and severity. Various different versions of this style appeared on the runway (see photos).

From the legendary A/W 95 collection. The season marked a radical turn in Yohji Yamamoto's work from the straight-line geometry of his 2 preceding Kimono themed collections toward a dramatically sculpted exploration of Western tailoring and couture history. Victorian and Edwardian forms were dismantled and recomposed around his fascination with the female back, weight of fabric, and movement — designing for a figure passing by — described as “designing the wind”.